QUESTION : I am going to pull out the row of Wax
Leaf Ligustrum in front of my house (against the foundation)
and replace them with Dwarf Burford Holly. How far from
the house and from each other should they be planted? Do
you have any other suggestions for a hedge there? It is
on the south side, but under the eaves and huge oak trees,
therefore dappled sunlight. I'll plant a variety of natives
and well adapted smaller plants in front of it, such as
ferns, nandinas, columbine, plumbago, etc. This hedge will
be kept between three and four feet tall. I considered dwarf
pittosporum, but have some with branch die-back and leaves
that look like they were splattered with bleach, so I'm
wondering how wise a choice they would be.
ANSWER :I think that the Dwarf Burford Holly is a
good choice for your hedge. It does well in our soils, likes
the dappled light condition you describe and has very few
problems. It can develop scale but if you see it coming
on, spraying with horticultural oil will take care of them.
I would plant them 3 feet from the foundation and, since
you want them to form a continuous hedge, 3 feet apart.
This PLANTanswers web site is a good article on pruning
and has a section on pruning hedges;
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/pruning/PRUNING.html
This is what it says about broad leafed evergreen hedges:
"Evergreen nursery stock for hedging need not be as
small as deciduous material and should not be cut back when
planted. Trim lightly after a year or two. Start shaping
as the individual plants merge into a continuous hedge.
Do not trim too closely because many needle-bearing evergreens
do not easily generate new growth from old wood. Hedges
are often shaped with flat tops and vertical sides; however,
this unnatural shape is seldom successful. As far as the
plant is concerned, the best shape is a natural form, with
a rounded or slightly pointed top and with sides slanting
to a wide base."
I do not recommend dwarf pittosporum for this area because
of their lack of cold hardiness.
QUESTION : I live in Austin, Texas. I have a small
bed of chives (or some type of small green onion) that was
planted before I bought my house 3 years ago. Since then,
they have thrived and spread. They are now popping up all
over the lawn. (1) Is there any way to contain the existing
bed so that I can maintain it without creating an onion-scented
lawn? (2) Also, how can I get rid of the new chives that
are sprouting up all over the yard? I also have several
very large cherry laurels (approx. 20 feet tall). They appear
to have been pruned to be tree shaped. I would like to shorten
them and prune them so that they would become more shrub
shaped and fuller (they line a chain-link fence that I would
rather have hidden by shrubs). Is it possible to trim them
to encourage this type of shape and if so, how should I
prune them?
ANSWER :I think that the onion like plant you have
is Garlic Chives (Allium tuberosum). Are the leaves flat
rather than round like green onions or onion chives? There
is a good picture of Garlic Chives at this web site: http://www.nnlm.nlm.nih.gov/pnr/uwmhg/mhg953069.html
If this is what you have, then the answer to the containment
problem is to deadhead the flowers before they can produce
seed. The clump will still multiply but this can be controlled
by digging up the entire clump, dividing it and only replanting
a portion. Perhaps your friends and neighbors need some.
If so, share.
The ones that have already escaped to the lawn will need
to be dug and removed.
As to the Cherry Laurels; This web site is a good article
on pruning:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/pruning/PRUNING.html
It includes a section on broad leafed evergreens which
says: Broad-leaved evergreens such as gardenias, camellias,
azaleas, pyracantha, hollies and photinias require very
little pruning. Lightly thin broad-leaved evergreens grown
for their showy fruit such as pyracantha and holly during
the dormant season if needed for shaping. Remove old or
weak stems. This group can go several years without pruning
except for some slight cosmetic pruning to keep them neat.
If too much wood is removed from these plants at anytime,
summer or winter, the amount of fruit is reduced the following
season. When these plants become old and straggly, cut them
back 6 to 8 inches from the ground before spring growth
begins. Don't cut them back too early, however, because
a flush of growth could freeze and set them back. Prune
only after the danger of the last killing frost is past.
Such pruning stimulates the growth of new shoots from the
base of the plant. Many gardeners prefer to remove only
about one-third of the branches at one time and retain the
general contour of the plant. This method also can be used.
In the long run, probably the best thing to do with overgrown
broad-leaved evergreens is to remove and replace them.
While the technique of cutting the Cherry Laurels back drastically
(6 to 8 inches above the ground) might work, I would be
somewhat reluctant to do that. Perhaps under planting them
with a perennial such as blue plumbago (Plumbago auriculata)
would work. Although they would freeze back in the winter,
they would return from their roots and hide the fence during
the growing season.
QUESTION : We live in the Canyon Lake area of Comal
County and would like to know the recommended varieties
of red, black, and green, seedless grapes for this area.
Also, please recommend a variety of grape for jams and jellies.
In addition, what are the best varieties of blackberries
for
this area?
ANSWER :The best varieties for your area will have
to resistant to P.D.(Pierces's Disease), hence plant Black
Spanish or Favorite (purple), and Blanc duBois (white seeded)
for wine grapes. The only green seedless variety with P.D.
resistance is Orlando seedless. All of these varieties can
be used to make jams and jellies. Champanel could also be
used which is another purple grape.
The best blackberry for your area bar none is Kiowa. Second
choice would be Rosborough.
QUESTION : I am trying go get some information on
how to graft a one year old peach tree.
ANSWER : Use the T-bud which is illustrated at the
following Plantanswers site:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/propagation/budding/budding.html
You will need to secure the buds from an improved variety
this spring with some budding tape and you should be in
business.
QUESTION: I enjoyed reading your brief on pecan
tree physiology. I found it doing a "yahoo" search
on "pecan shells". I am looking for information
on pecan shells. Specifically, the tannins of pecan shells.
I am a chemist working as a consultant on a project that
deals with the tannin composition of pecan shells. I know
someone, somewhere has extracted these substances from shells
and has probably characterized the composition. Do you have
such information or know of someone who might.
ANSWER : Certain species do contain more tannin than
other species. Carya aquatica is inedible because of all
the tannins in the kernels. I have characterized the nutrient
composition of the shells, but not the tannin content.
One person, Dr. Bruce Wood, may be able to help you. He
is Director of the Southeast Fruit and Tree Nut Research
Laboratory in Georgia. His e-mail address is a03lcbyron@attmail.com.
QUESTION: Thank you for the valuable resource that
you provide -I am a big user and fan of your network. As
a master gardener I value your resources but, as a bamboo
enthusiast I must take some exception with your fact sheet
attached to the bamboo web. Your description of DAMNBOO
is certainly deserved for some instances but -so is English
ivy, morning glory, bermuda grass, etc. You do not give
nearly enough information about non-invasive (clumping,
pacymorph, very slow growing or climate restricted leptomor
phs, etc. that deserve better press for Texas gardeners.
Bamboo is not only beautiful as a container/contained spec.
plant, it is a great erosion control species, an good edible
crop, timber/pulp alternative and a fabulous "mow it
once a year" ground cover. How about letting some real
experts (not me particularly) do some work on your web link
to make this more accurate? I'm not just a hair-brained
big grass nut.
ANSWER : No, maybe not a grass nut but DEFINITELY
a bit on the naive side when dealing with the here-and-now
of bamboo!! We never have trouble controlling "English
ivy, morning glory, bermuda grass, etc." --to compare
them to bamboo is foolish. You description of bamboo as
"a beautiful as a container/contained spec. plant,
it is a great erosion control species, an good edible crop,
timber/pulp alternative and a fabulous "mow it once
a year" ground cover" brings to mind two other
such plants which were introduced into the U.S. with the
same claims --kudzu and nutsedge!!
However, you are not the only person who has called our
attention to the "vicious attack" on bamboo --YOU
ARE THE SECOND among thousands who want to know how to control
your "useful" plant:
COMMENTS: Whoever wrote that piece on "Damnboo"
needs to get a grip or at least understand that not all
of us live in suburban neighborhoods. I live on a spectacular
piece of salt water and have a fine neighbor ( a professional
fisher person) who has a yard full of old machinery, dead
boats etc. I also have a flourishing stand of running (invasive)
bamboo between us and another neighbor. My problem is not
controlling the existing stuff, but transplanting it to
the roadside/driveway verge between us and the first-mentioned
neighbor. I have tried digging up new shoots and transplanting
with zero survival rate. Because of vicious attacks like
yours, no self-respecting nursery carries real bamboo any
more, so what should I do? Suggestions for other evil, invasive
large plants that will grow in the shade of coastal South
Carolina will also be appreciated.
ANSWER: Another "evil" plant that makes a good
screen is Arundo donax (giant reed), a grass that looks
like a bamboo, but has a more refined ornamental habit.
Pampas grass is also another good one, but it is not as
tall and is a more contained clump former.
I guess the old saying "One person's trash is another
person's treasure" applies to bamboo but I hate to
even use the idea that there is a place where the spreading
bamboo can be safely planted. Of course, those who know
bamboo say there are dwarf, slowly spreading forms of the
plant which are wonderful for landscapes. "Damnboo"
is the commonly cultivated Phyllostachys aurea (Golden Bamboo).
I realize I am stereotyping the other hundreds of types
of bamboo. However, 99% of all bamboo sold is the invasive,
indestructible type because nurseries can propagate that
form much faster. This type of invasive bamboo should NEVER
be sold to the unsuspecting public because it is practically
uncontrollable.
Since you think I am over-reacting, let me give you my
perspective on this situation. I have been an Extension
Horticulturist in San Antonio for over 25 years. Barely
a week goes by or a talk radio garden show ends that the
horrors of bamboo are exposed. I have seen complete yards
taken over; I have seen concrete sidewalks buckled by; I
have seen garages (closed to outside light) filled with;
I have seen swimming pool foundations cracked and punctured;
I have seen it actually grow into houses and crack foundations;
ALL by invading bamboo. All of these commonly occurring
incidents have one thing in common --the neighbor who planted
the bamboo has moved away. I have NEVER found the culprit
who planted bamboo in a ravaged neighborhood. Obviously,
these folks took the best advice we give to people concerning
how to get rid of bamboo --SELL your property and MOVE far
away.
Some might say control and containment is the answer to
this specific type of bamboo. IT AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN!!! The
professional horticulturists at the San Antonio zoo (one
of which is a member of the Bamboo Society and a great proponent
of the "good guys" bamboo!!) decided to plant
the indestructible bamboo in concrete containers and put
them in the lion and tiger cages. You want to guess who
won that battle of survival?! The bamboo root system cracked
the concrete containers, found some cracks in the concrete
floor of the animal cages and within two years had gotten
so thick that they had to take the lions and tigers out
of the cages. They are now stuck with trying to control
bamboo through a concrete floor --it is an everlasting battle.
Horticulturists have gotten so many calls about how to
control bamboo-out-of-control and the options are so few
that one fellow began offering a plan to co-exist with this
invasive plant by thinning the canes into a Japanese garden
style!! The rampant bamboo is comparable to snakes and mushrooms
--the majority of snakes and mushrooms are harmless but
the few that are poisonous are deadly. I do not recommend
that people eat wild mushrooms; I do not recommend that
people pick up unknown snakes in the woods; and I do not
recommend that people plant bamboo. Until more of the "good"
bamboo becomes readily available, the bamboo-is-DAMNboo
tag will have to stay. The majority of people who come to
PLANTanswers and inquire about bamboo are trying to GET
RID OF IT!! PLANTanswers has had TWO people complaining
about the DAMNboo nomenclature.
So now that we have the bamboo situation clarified, let
us look at some options. If you will look at the plant material
recommended for the Coastal Plains at the PLANTanswer's
site:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/PLANTanswers/publications/coastalplants/saltplants.html
or
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/PLANTanswers/publications/saltplants.html
you might find a substitute. You might try something that
blooms such as oleander (Hardy Red and/or Hardy Pink). It
is evergreen and denser than bamboo during the winter.
I appreciate the compliment "Because of vicious attacks
like yours, no self-respecting nursery carries real bamboo
any more" --I can only hope that I have done something
to eliminate this horrible pest. Maybe then the void can
be filled with the "good-guys" bamboo and we can
all live happily ever after. I have been growing some extremely
dwarf bamboo which unfortunately spreads so slowly it will
probably never become commercially feasible. I had planned
to use it as a turf replacement and name it NO -MO since
you would not have to mow it NO -MO; you would not have
to water or fertilize it NO -MO; you would not have children
walking across or playing in your yard NO -MO because of
the bamboo spikes which would be formed when you did mow
it!!! It sounds like the best turf sod ever --GOTTA LOVE
THAT BAMBOO or is it D A M N B O O !?!?
By the way, the key to transplanting running bamboo (normally
considered very easy to transplant) is to dig a good size
piece of the underground rhizome and plant it along with
a good watering. Moving "fishing pole" or small
shoots doesn't work. Arundo donax 'Variegata' is also a
good choice. It too is rare in the nursery trade, not because
of slander but because of it's invasive nature. Both are
beautiful however in the right spot. There just aren't that
many right spots in most landscapes!!
