Onion Transplanting Time
                    by Jerry Parsons, Ph.D.
                    Horticulture Specialist, Texas Agricultural Extension Service 
                    in San Antonio
                  There are usually two ways to successfully grow 
                    those jumbo stinkers called onions
. 
                    Seed can be planted in October or transplants can be planted 
                    now. Onion seedlings which are small and rapidly growing often 
                    don't survive when the cold temperatures occur. This means 
                    that most onions will HAVE to be grown from transplants. 
                   Plant onion transplants as soon as possible 
                    to establish roots before optimum bulbing conditions occur. 
                    The onion transplants should only be planted at least 4 inches 
                    apart and one-inch deep (knuckle deep) or until all roots 
                    are covered and the main crown is partially covered. For more 
                    information and drawings, see: 
                   http://plantanswers.com/Resources/Vegetable/E-514_onions.pdf
                   For best results and maximum sized onion bulbs, 
                    certain procedures should be followed. Fertilization of onion 
                    transplants is vital to success. Texas A&M research findings 
                    indicate that onion growth and yield can be greatly enhanced 
                    by banding phosphorus 2-3 inches below transplants at planting 
                    time. This phosphorus acts as a starter solution which invigorates 
                    their growth. 
                  
                    Banding phosphorus, such as super phosphate 
                    (0-20-0), 2-3 inches below the plant involves making a trench 
                    or planting furrow 4 inches deep in the raised planting bed, 
                    distributing one-half cup (one-half pound) of super phosphate 
                    per 10 linear feet of row, covering the phosphate with 2 inches 
                    of soil, and planting transplants. Once established, onion 
                    plants should receive additional amounts of fertilizer such 
                    as ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) as a sidedress application EVERY 
                    three weeks -- use one cupful or one pound per 100 square 
                    feet (10' X 10') of planting area.
                   Remember that onions require several months 
                    to mature so plant them in a location which won't be needed 
                    until June. Also, don't plant onions where they may be shaded 
                    later by larger growing plants such as tomatoes or corn. Shading 
                    decreases growth rate and, subsequently, bulb size.
                  
I have been told that "you can't make 
                    a silk purse out of a sow's ear". Since sow's ears are 
                    in short supply, I have never tried the silk purse conversion 
                    but I DO know that the onion transplant you use will largely 
                    determine the bulbing success. A quality transplant must be 
                    used. Unfortunately, in the past, many of the onion plants 
                    sold were diseased with pink root fungus, misnamed and of 
                    poor quality. Texas Cooperative Extension horticulturists 
                    have identified sources of true-to-name, disease-free, field-grown 
                    transplants which are now available in local nurseries. 
                   For optimum bulb size, onion plants must be 
                    planted as soon as possible and judiciously fertilized throughout 
                    the season as outlined above. When selecting onion plants, 
                    the largest transplant may not be the best. If the stem of 
                    onion plants are larger than a pencil when exposed to cold 
                    temperatures, the onion will initiate and 
produce 
                    a flower. This flowering is termed as bolting. Most rapid 
                    bolting is caused by temperatures of 40-45 degrees F. or below. 
                    Fall seeded onion transplants are prone to bolting this spring 
                    if onions with stems larger than a pencil were exposed to 
                    warm fall temperatures, allowing excessive growth, followed 
                    by low winter temperatures and slowed growth. 
                   Many gardeners believe that early removal of 
                    the onion flower stalk will cause onion bulb enlargement but 
                    this has not proven to be the case. Flowering causes a decrease 
                    in bulb size as well as a central flower stalk which enhances 
                    decay during storage. The onion bulbs which produce a flower 
                    stalk may be large but they will be light-weight (one-half 
                    the weight of a comparable size, non-flowered onion bulb) 
                    and prone to decay. So give your neighbor "friends" 
                    the large onion transplants --you keep and plant the less-than-pencil-size 
                    transplants which can't bolt.
                   NOW is the time to act if you want to insure 
                    a crop of big stinkers in June. Since the apple's reputation 
                    has been tainted by the alar scare, maybe we can substitute 
                    "an onion a day keeps the doctor away". Why not? 
                    An onion a day keeps most people away! For more information 
                    about the famous Texas onion and its relationship to every 
                    other sweet onion in the world, see:
                  http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/publications/onions/onionhis.html