QUESTION: I live in San Antonio. Do you know what the yellow, corn kernel-looking growths are that are attached to my oak root sprouts when I pull them up? I've never seen them in past years. Also, do you know what would happen to mature dwarf pittosporums if they are cut down to the ground this time of year?

ANSWER: I think the kernel-looking growths are mycorrhizal fungi, i.e. "good" fungi. The other possibility is that the growths are gall from a cnipid wasp, which generally lay eggs on leaves but a few species lay them on roots. The bottom line - don't worry about either. There is nothing you can do about either one.

You should remove no more than 1/3 of your dwarf pittosporum per year. Removing over a half of the existing bush would shock the plant causing a long recovery period or death. At this PLANTanswers web site you will find an excellent primer on pruning:
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/pruning/PRUNING.html

This is what it has to say about rejuvenating broad-leaved evergreen shrubs:

"When these plants become old and straggly, cut them back 6 to 8 inches from the ground before spring growth begins. Don't cut them back too early, however, because a flush of growth could freeze and set them back. Prune only after the danger of the last killing frost is past. Such pruning stimulates the growth of new shoots from the base of the plant. Many gardeners prefer to remove only about 1/3 of the branches at one time and retain the general contour of the plant. This method also can be used."

QUESTION: Do you know a source for Gladiolus byzantinus (corn flags) mentioned in Scott Ogden's book on bulbs for the south?

ANSWER: The only place that I know that has reliably carried the Byzantine Gladiolus in the past has been The Antique Rose Emporium. And they usually sell out early so if you decide to go, you might call them in advance to see if they have any. The other source is to find someone who has them growing and is dividing them.

QUESTION: My wife and I have a beautiful fig tree that produces literally thousands of figs. The fruit is very sweet and overly abundant. We would like to know if the figs can be harvested and frozen whole for later use in preserves and such.

ANSWER: While I have never frozen figs, always setting aside a week in mid-July when they ripen to make preserves, both the Ball Blue Book Guide to Home Canning and Freezing and the Kerr Home Canning and Freezing Book give instructions on how to do it. Having determined that, I did a web search and found this web page that gives detailed information on how to do it:

http://www.ag.fvsu.edu/html/publications/teletips/food%20preservation%20and%20storage/1418. htm

QUESTION: I need an evergreen shrub that will grow to 10 to 12 feet high to screen Interstate 20 from sight, as informal hedge. Will grow partially under canopy of mature oak trees, but will receive about 4 hours/day direct sunlight, and needs to be drought tolerant as it will not be watered on a regular basis. Cedar comes to mind, but husband has strong allergy to pollen. Is there a kind that doesn't send out yellow pollen? I don't think Photinas will get enough sun and will stay black-spotted. Bamboo is too invasive. Suggestions? Would like it to mature full height within 5 to 7 years if possible.

ANSWER: The plant that is commonly referred to as cedar is actually juniper and I do not know of any that will grow well there that will not produce the pollen that affects your husband (and many others).

A couple of plants that you might consider to provide your sight and sound barrier are ligustrum and xylosma. The below listed U of Michigan web sites give information on the ligustrum:

http://www.msue.msu.edu/msue/imp/mod03/01702025.html

Ligustrum japonicum--Japanese Privet

A large, dense shrub suitable for warmer climates, zone 6 to 10. The leaves are dark green and the plant is quite tolerant of shearing. The plant can be 10 feet tall with a spread of about 7 feet. The white flowers are not particularly showy and have an odor that some may find offensive.

http://www.msue.msu.edu/msue/imp/mod03/01700559.html

Ligustrum vulgare--Common Privet
Common privet is grown as a hedge plant because it tolerates shearing and is quite dense. It grows 12 to 15 feet high and spreads 12 to 15 feet. The plant is highly branched but quite irregular in shape if not sheared. Privet tolerates most light exposures but is not as dense in the shade. It is easily transplanted and grows rapidly. The white flowers are often sheared off in early summer. The fruit is glossy and black but not particularly ornamental.

And this University of Arizona web site discusses xylosma.

http://ag.arizona.edu/classes/lar520/unit10/xylocong.htm

Xylosma congestum
Evergreen -- hardy; sun, part shade; dry, drought resistant once established; fast to medium growing; Can be trained into a tree, grows to 8 feet in 5 years; grows to 20 feet high x 20 feet wide; good by patios and pools; trim to hedge; plant anytime (best in spring) from containers; Inconspicuous spring flower (green); disease include: iron chlorosis in heavy or alkaline soils, and Texas root rot, spider mites, and scale. Foliage is glossy bright green; bark is gray; the plant must have well drained soil. It is a large foundation or patio plant used for wide screening outdoors. It requires medium maintenance; clip any time; takes pruning; spray for mites and scale; treat for iron chlorosis with iron; water deeply; and infrequently feed. Medium to large patio shrub used for all screening plants. Espalier, woodsy.

QUESTION: Did I recent hear you mention a product that could be sprayed on lantana that would kill the nut grass and not harm the lantana? I have looked everywhere and no one knows about it.

ANSWER: Either "Image" or "Manage" can be used to eradicate nut grass. However, neither should be sprayed on the foliage of the lantana or the plants could be damaged. These herbicides were developed for use on nut grass in established lawns. You could also carefully apply (with a brush) full strength glyphosate herbicide (Roundup, Kleanup or Finale) onto the nutgrass foliage to eliminate it from a lantana planting.

QUESTION: I saved my moonflower seeds from last year. After soaking them the recommended 48 hours they are still as hard as rocks and only one seed out of 50 has absorbed any water. What am I doing wrong and am I wasting my time? You helped me last fall with some native Texas Buckeye seeds and I now have a beautiful 9" plant in my greenhouse.

ANSWER: It may appear to you that the seed have not softened. However, it would be my guess that they have. I would either go ahead and sow the seed, or if you are so inclined, you can place the seed between moistened layers of paper towel. Then place them in a zipper-lock bag or similar plastic bag in a warm place. Check them frequently (once a day) to check for germination. When the roots emerge, go ahead and carefully plant them in a pot or directly in the ground where you want them to grow.

QUESTION: I am trying to find out how to start mountain laurels from seeds? I haven't had any luck just planting them in the ground? Is there a magic trick?

ANSWER: The Mountain Laurel (Sophora secundiflora) has a seed with an extremely thick hard coat. I suppose that we are fortunate that it does because the insides of the seed is very toxic and the seed if accidentally ingested will just pass straight through without dispensing its toxin. However, this coat does make it difficult to get good germination. One method is to scarify this hard coat either manually or with acid. This is the answer given to a previous question that can be found at this Aggie web site:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/plantanswers/trees/tree.html

Look for:

Q: How can you germinate seeds from Texas Mountain Laurel?

QUESTION: My lawn is a mix of St. Augustine and Bermuda grass and last year was invaded by Dallis grass. I wasn't very successful in controlling that particular weed last year, and I desperately want to get rid of it this time.

ANSWER: Dallis grass is a perennial that is hard to control in turfgrasses, especially St Augustine since the herbicides that will kill dallies grass will also kill the St Augustine. This PLANTanswers web site is an article by Dr Richard Duble on dallis grass:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/PLANTanswers/turf/publications/weed14.html

In Bermuda grass, dallis grass is effectively controlled by two applications of MSMA or similar materials at 3 pounds per acre. Applications in early spring are most effective and should be repeated at 2-week intervals. MSMA should be applied with a boom or broadcast sprayer in 100 gallons or less of water per acre.

Make applications of MSMA 3 to 4 days after mowing to provide more leaf surface to absorb the herbicide. Do not water for at least 24 hours after treatment and delay mowing for several more days. Dallis grass leaves will begin to show discoloration 3 to 5 days after treatment and significant leaf burning should be apparent after 7 to 10 days. Within 2 weeks some regrowth may occur and a second application of MSMA is necessary.

In St. Augustine and centipede grass lawns, spot treatment of dallies grass with glyphosate (Roundup) is most effective. Treated areas need to be plugged or sodded with St. Augustine or centipede grass after dallies grass dies to prevent other weeds from becoming established in the dead areas. Pre-emerge herbicides may also be helpful in St. Augustine or centipede turf to prevent the spread of dallis grass from seed.